We have similar Etruscan and Art Nouveau items, which would pair nicely with this piece, for sale this week. To view in separate listings, please visit our store and search "Etruscan" or "Nouveau" under our items.
Listing description by: Angela A.
The Piece
Markings: "PAT April 19-10 Aug 19-13" on the back of the upper brooch, "A111" etched on the inside of the locket, tested, and guaranteed
Main stone: Tiger's eye
Main stone measurements/color:
-Length: 15.85 mm & 18.75 mm
-Width: 11.8 mm & 15.85 mm
-Color: opaque deep brown and caramel brown hues with chatoyancy
Accent stone: --
Accent stone measurements/color: --
Stone treatment: The stone(s) appears to be untreated, but we are not certified gemologists. Stone(s) have been tested and guaranteed using a professional Presidium Duo refractive, heat, and hardness tester.
Stone cuts: Carved and polished high relief cameos (both)
Item measurements:
-Upper brooch measurements: 2.22" length, 0.76" width
-Locket measurements: 1.56" including bale, 1.20" width
-Total length: 3.05"
Notable features:
-handmade during the Art Nouveau era, inspired by the style of the Etruscan Revival
-composed of 14k yellow gold filled over base metal
-features an upper bar pin brooch adorned with hand-chased foliate swirl details
-a large square tiger's eye stone was carved into a high relief cameo and set atop the brooch
-this cameo depicts the image of a woman in profile, gazing to the left and wearing a high pointed collar
-dangling from this bar pin brooch is a length of rolo chain, strung with a round locket
-a carved tiger's eye cameo depicting a Roman legionary, complete with helmet and arrow details, adorns the locket's front
-the locket opens via a hinge at the bottom to reveal two compartments, perfect for holding photos or small mementos
-completed with a pin stem and replacement locking "c" clasp for secure wear
-the locket could also be removed and worn as a pendant
Damage: Age appropriate wear. The locking "c" clasp appears to be a replacement from a previous owner. There is a minor dent to the back of the locket. There are areas of wear to the gold fill throughout, which does not affect wear. The price has been reduced to reflect this.
*This listing is for the item only. All display boxes and/or photography props do not come with your purchase.*
The History
The Art Nouveau era, 1890-1910, was also called "La Belle Epoque" in French, which translates to "A Beautiful Time.? This was very true due to the gorgeous designs that came out of this period. This era focused on women and the beauty of nature and the pieces were often large. Enamel was a common material used in Art Nouveau jewelry as the period was more about the importance of the design over the materials used to create it. The Art Nouveau buy period happened before the start of the first World War, when mass manufacturing took over the production of many products, including some jewelry.
Etruscan Revival jewelry was first popularized during the early 1800s when an Etruscan tomb was discovered just outside of Rome. Upon its discovery, jewelers worked to imitate and understand the metalworking techniques with which the jewelry was made. Not only was Etruscan jewelry a luxurious addition to the Victorian styles of the day. But it introduced new ideas and decorations. These Etruscan tombs contained jewelry adorned with long and flowing geometric lines and motifs, mythological imagery and scenery, and celestial elements. The techniques of repoussé, filigree, and granulation are all attributed to the Etruscans.
A cameo is an image that has been carved in raised relief by cutting away the background of different materials to create a contrast in height and color. The earliest examples of cameos date back to the 3rd century BC. In antiquity, this was achieved by carving into a single piece of banded agate to reveal the layers of colors, but now it is much more common that cameos are made of two different materials. The most common form of fine jewelry cameo is created by layering a carved white shell on top of a stone of contrasting color with a flat plane. Cameos usually depict a beautiful or famous person in profile, or a mythological figure. The Romans were true artisans when it came to creating these pieces, so there are many Roman cultural influences found in cameos, even to this day. These are true miniature art works.
Tiger's eye, a member of the quartz family, is a gorgeous chatoyant stone. This type of stone is famous for its iridescent brown waves that glow yellow as the stone is moved in the light. It was given its name due to the bright appearance of the line of light in the center of the stone. Generating its value from its gorgeous colors, polished Tigers Eye is a highly sought-after stone.
Chasing is a metalworking technique that uses a nail-like tool and hammer to hand etch patterns onto a metal surface. This process creates a design that is sunk into the front of the surface using indentations, grooves, and channels. Chasing is thousands of years old and was a very difficult and time-consuming technique that is still used by metalsmiths today.
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Product code: Antique Vintage Nouveau Gold Filled GF Etruscan Tigers Eye Cameo Pin Brooch buy 25g